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Post Christian Dior autumn-spun4
Christian Dior autumn
An old industrial furniture design student,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Simons has hitherto eschewed the razzmatazz of the fashion-show-as-circus. Throughout his tenure at Jil Sander, the minimalist fashion label, he was notorious for not giving interviews as well as for crowd dodging. His quiet but rigorously architectural take on femininity and the beautiful colour palettes still made waves, even just in Hollywood, despite his policy of never inviting celebrities to his shows.
That was then. Dior is really a much bigger company than Sander and they do things differently there. While Princess Charlene of Monaco posed about the grand stone staircase leading up to the first floor, Donatella Versace,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], vanilla-coloured hair almost reflective in the sunlight, smiled for that paparazzi outside, alongside the model Natalia Vodianova,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], who's now dating Antoine Arnault,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], son of Bernard, the top of LVMH.
"Lizbet" Lizbet!" yelled the photographers, because the luminous actress Isabelle Huppert tottered in, thin as a blade in black trouser suit. "Lizbet? Her name's Isabelle," said Donatella helpfully. Whatever.
The show was 40 minutes late and for a surprising quantity of that time, the crowd sat in hushed anticipation. Perhaps they'd been bumped out by the scent from the a large number of flowers that covered the walls from ceiling to floor. The continues to be waiting 1 . 5 years to see where Dior would pursue the catastrophic car-crash of John Galliano's final years there. The solution,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], to judge from the 54 outfits Simons showed has returned to the future.
READ: Raf Simons confirmed as artistic director of Dior
Within the four months since his appointment, he's dug deep within the archives. But it was no slavish homage. Dior's original 1947 New Look would be a bulky, padded,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], majesterial affair. Galliano's versions were more exaggerated still. Simons scaled down the width of those skirts, although by elongating the waists he ensured their impact only agreed to be as dramatic. Incorporating the signature 'Bar Jacket' into black trouser suits or turning it into a tuxedo-dress,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and relocating its cupped pockets so they now sit within the breasts of bustiers,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], were three more ideas that worked beautifully as instant updaters. As were the arrow-sharp stiletto court shoes - classic in the front, however with a sculpted, curved heel, worn either with full or pencil skirts or skinny trousers.
There is much which was familiar - not only in the history books of Dior - but from their own canon. A pale pink 'New Look' dress and a red full skirted coat weren't millions of miles from ones he designed at Jil Sander just before he left. For evening, it had been more of the same: but embroidered and appliquéd, sometimes in patchwork panels. By avoiding theatrical gimmicks, he ran the risk of looking as though he hadn't done much, but this was a clever,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], subtle reworking of Dior's DNA, which promises well for collections to come, and delivered all that he wanted.
"I'm not thinking about just doing couture that works in magazine pictures,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]. I'd like so that it is relevant" he said after the show. Yes he spoke: another departure from normality.
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